This article is NOT meant to take the place of a qualified marine surveyor and is only a guide to help you determine if the boat you are looking at is worth bringing in a marine surveyor.

Having been a marine surveyor since 1992, I am pleased to say that there are still many older C&C Yachts afloat, and available on the brokerage or private market. C&C Yachts built them from 24’ to 61’, from solid ocean going cruisers to sleek racers. We don’t have to look very far to find one that suits our sailing needs and interests, since they were sold through out North America, Canada Great Britain & Europe.

The Aging Fleet:

As with many things, large problems requiring extensive repairs start with small problems which should have been repaired in the beginning and quite possibly at a less cost.

The everyday little things that go unnoticed often lead to trouble and expenses for owners, and, in some cases for the insurance companies, which in turn ultimately increases our premiums.

These observations are not limited to C&C Yachts, and I have seen them on all other brand of sailboats made in the USA, Europe & Asia.

A. Hoses:

Hoses are the watertight integrity of the hull and must be inspected routinely. Even more so if the boat you’re looking at stays in the water through the winter. If the ends of the hoses are split, or cracked at a bend, or is it hard/brittle then replace it. If the hose is OK but the clamp(s) are rusted, then install new stainless steel clamp(s). Remember the cost of hoses & clamps can start at $5.00, and this is very cheep insurance when you consider the typical hose will last from five to twenty years.

You’ll find hoses connected to the engine raw water intake, air conditioner intake, sink drains, cockpit scupper drains, sea water wash down and in some the generator intake. Also check the shower sump discharge for an anti-siphon valve, if applicable. Inspect the propane locker drain hose. The locker must drain overboard, no exception.

B. Sea Cocks:

1. When I do my inspection I have a 15-page site-form. The last page is Through Hull Fittings. This page has an outline of a boat (as looking from atop) and lists the location, function, material, type, bonded and comments. In the boat outline I put a box with a number then list it in the location section. I usually send this page to the new boat owner, since it does list the location of all the through-hull fittings on their boat.

2. Check the sea cocks handle for free of movement. The handle should only move 90 degrees. In the open position the handle will be vertical or parallel to the seacock. In the off position the handle will be horizontal or 90 degrees off the open position. Ball valves are different and gate valves should never be used on a boat. If the boat your considering buying does have gate valves (gate valve: the spigot outside your house where you attach the water hose), then the first thing you need to do is haul the boat and have ALL the gate valves replaced with seacocks. Almost all C&C Yachts manufactured prior to 1977-78 were installed with gate valves. Unless it was destined for the salt water, then seacocks were installed. If the seacock is rusted, corroded or missing its handle, get ready to replace it with a new one.

3. Grab the seacock and slightly start to turn the whole unit. Does the through hull fitting turn, too? It better not, because if it does then the seal between the hull & through hull fitting has been broken and this is trouble if the hull is balsa cored. As we very well know C&C Yachts cored lots of their hulls. Is the wood butt block, between the fitting and the hull rotted, or deteriorated from poultice corrosion.

4. Plastic barbed fittings threaded into seacocks should be replaced. Seacocks are of a bronze material and I have found that when a plastic fitting (this does not include the marlon fittings) is screwed into the bronze seacock that the plastic threads do not mate with the metal properly and end up cross threading. So when you do get it threaded on it is most likely not secured properly and will give you a false sense of security. Another reason to remove plastic barbed fittings below the waterline, is when the water freezes it can crack the plastic. Therefor it is advisable to remove the plastic fitting and install a bronze or marlon one.

Remember to always secure the hose with two (2) stainless steel clamps.

C. Fuel System:

For my first sail boat, I had the pleasure of buying an abandoned, dry docked, 1973 C&C 27, from the marina who repossessed her about 6 years prior. The first time I looked inside her she had some 23" of water in the cabin and so much mildew that I had to hold my breath whilst looking in yet still standing in the cockpit. The entire cabin top was covered in a green fungus. But I saw tremendous potential and for only $1,000 US.

1. The fuel tanks on older C&C Yachts are steel and they will develop holes in them, it is inevitable. All of the fuel hoses were rotted and the gas inside the feed line was congealed. In the West Marine catalog, I found an aluminum tank and once installed was almost a perfect fit. NEVER EVER try and have the old tank repaired. The price for a replacement tank is far less then the price we pay for leaking gasoline and the potential for an explosion. My tank had numerous holes in its top and due to its installation, located in the starboard locker, slid into the forward bulkhead which once the tank was positioned was neatly tucked under the galley, with only ¼ of the tank exposed, enough for the hoses. The holes would have never been discovered until the tank was full. I have since sold this boat and she is still sailing happily with her new owner, who, by the way, intends to sail ‘Sheer Bliss’ across the Pacific to Australia. Your nose is the best test when looking at the tank. If you smell gas upon opening the locker or down in the bilge, you can very well bet there’s a leak somewhere.

2. Does she have a 12-volt fuel pump mounted near the engine? If so ABYC states that it must be mounted within twelve (12") inches form the motor, the pump must be ignition protected and wired to shut-off when the engine is stopped or has quit and the ignition switch is still on. Typically you can wire the pump to the oil pressure switch, but this takes a qualified marine mechanic to insure its proper installation.

3. The original engine mounted manual pump is the best. When looking at the pump take a folded paper towel and run it gently on the pump bottom. Is there any gasoline on the towel? If so, its time for a rebuild or a new pump.

4. The fuel tank fill and vent hoses must be U.S.C.G Type B1, the engine feed hose must be U.S.C.G. Type A1 or Canadian equivalent. There are no exceptions in this rule, ever. If the hose is stamped SAE, NAPA or even hydraulic remove them and replace them with hose stamped U.S.C.G. I have seen some steel braided hoses and this is acceptable providing the rubber hose is of U.S.C.G.

C. Universal Atomic 4 Gasoline Engines:

The Atomic 4 engine is one of my favorite subjects and favorite little engines. In 1973 at 18, I started my new life as a jet engine mechanic, then a motorcycle mechanic, and then I owned a Mercedes Benz restoration shop specializing in pre & post WWII. I sold the Mercedes business when Reagonomics put a crunch to our economy. I then became a precision tool grinder until I was forced to have back surgery.

I had already restored a 1968 19’ aluminum LoneStar, a 1965 27’ wooden Owens cabin cruiser, then I bought and was restoring a 1967 40’ Owens MY, when I saw an advertisement for Chapman’s School of Seamanship in Stuart, FL to become a marine surveyor. I went and it was an incredible learning experience with Charles Corder, AMS, as the instructor.

As I started to say in the above paragraph, I have overhauled jet, motorcycle, gasoline & diesel engines. But these days I take my car to the dealer and let them fix it for me. Nothing worse then having to repair your car/truck when you got a sleek sailing yacht begging for your attention.

The Atomic 4 engine started its life in 1947, but its predecessor, the 25 HP Utility Four was introduced in 1933. These little engines were installed in almost every boat from 25' to 41', in farm tractors and the U.S. Navy used them extensively during WWII. The little Atomic 4 was a four cylinder, flathead, side valve, with an updraft carburetor, developing some 30 HP that could push most boats past hull speed, into the outgoing tide and breaking waves. The earlier ones had no oil filters, but the realibility of this little engine that would is beyond reproach. Add gas, air, good set of spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, proper set of points with good gap & timing and she'll almost run for ever.

1. Check for gasoline leaks at the carburetor & the fuel pump (as described in Fuel System). The earlier carburetors were prone for having some gasoline puddle in the intake scoop and then dribbling onto the hull. Universal Motors were aware of this and redesigned the carburetors. We want NO fuel leaks at all, NO exceptions.

2. Have a compression test done. This will tell you about the condition of the rings and valves. A reading of 110 psi is very good. 130 psi or above and she’s got a build-up of carbon in the combustion chambers and on the piston domes. 80 psi and she’s showing her age. 50-60 psi and she’s ready for an overhaul.

3. When you visit with the owner ask how much oil she uses during the season and what the viscosity is, when the last oil change was and how much motoring do they do? One quart in 3 months is acceptable, one quart in 1 month and quite possibly the rings are worn. This would also coincide with a low compression. The service manual states 30w in summer and 10w30 in winter or just 10w in very cold winters. The minimal oil change acceptable in annually, but twice a year is more desirable.

4. When you schedule your first look-see, request that the engine is cold upon your arrival. By cold I mean it hasn’t been started for a couple of days. It takes a trained ear to listen to the engine and decipher and distinguish between all the different little noises that are made internally as she’s running. But for the mechanically illiterate here are a few simple things to look for:

1. Is there oil leaking from the gaskets between the oil pan & the block or the cylinder head & the block? Signs of a worn out engine or someone did a bad job sealing the mated parts.
2. During the cold engine start-up, she should start within 10-15 seconds. If she takes 1-2 minutes she could have low compression, fouled spark plugs, bad points-distributor cap or a rotor.
3. Immediately after start-up, look at the exhaust. Is she spitting out water? Is the exhaust black-push the choke in! is it still black? Carburetor needs attention. Is the exhaust gray? Oil bypassing worn rings, although once the engine is at operating temperature this should diminish. Is the exhaust white? This could mean a blown head gasket, but do not confuse this with the normal steam on a cool day. Once the engine is warmed-up you may or may not have all, only one or none of these. If the engine was recently rebuilt it just might mean the rings have not yet seated. Throttle the engine to 2000 rpm and listen to her from the opening in the cabin. Is she running smoothly or do you hear it missing a beat every few seconds? Here again even a rebuilt engine will miss a beat or two, but an old worn out engine will miss consistently and with succession.
4. Pull the oil dipstick, which also services the transmission. Is the oil milkshake? If so there’s water passing by a crack in the block and water is leaking into the oil passages.
5. The alternator MUST be Ignition Protected. Absolutely NO automotive alternators allowed.
6. If you buy any boat with gasoline inboard engines, I implore you, for safety sake to all occupants onboard, PLEASE INSTALL A GASOLINE FUME DETECTOR.

All of the Universal diesel engines I surveyed were hard to start and even when warmed-up they were still difficult to start and you still needed to use the glow plugs but once started they are reliable. Granted, I never got the opportunity to inspect a new unit. My 1981 C&C LF 35 has a 3 cylinder Yanmar. No glow plug switch/button, I turn the key, push the start button and within 3 seconds she’s off and running, waiting for forward or reverse. This even applied in the winter when it as 30 degrees outside.

1. We want NO fuel leaks at any rubber hose or metal connections including at the injectors. The fuel system from the injection pump is pressurized. Any leaks and she’s not getting the proper amount of fuel to the injector and possibly also sucking air into the fuel system which creates a different set of problems.
2. It has been my experience with ALL diesel engine, be it installed in our boat, car, train, planes oops that’s trucks. That once the manufacturer or rebuilder has taken great pride in assembling this mechanical work of art, the damn thing does its very best to shake-off anything attached to it, including the motor mounting bolts. SO it is very important that you check ALL nuts & bolts.
3. Pull the engine oil dipstick, is it milkshake or black? If its milkshake there’s water leaking. If its black and smells burnt the oil is past its usefulness and/or the injector pump needs fuel adjusting.
4. Here we also pull the transmission dipstick. It should be pink just like ATF that we use in car transmissions. Mind you, some transmission, do use, 30w oil or a different colored transmission fluid. Here again, the trained marine mechanic is your best reliable source.
5. I have also noticed that the heat exchanger on the older Universal diesel, leak antifreeze into the exhaust system. This means there’s a crack inside it. With the cold engine check the fluid level. After you have conducted your sea trial and the engine has cooled (about 1 hour), check the antifreeze level. Is it the same or lower?
6. Check for water discharge out the exhaust. While motoring out the harbor does the water temperature register 120 degrees (too cold), 160-180 degrees (normal) or 220 degrees (way too hot). A cold running engine and the fuel doesn’t get burnt properly. A hot engine and look out for pending immediate engine problems. A cold engine, the thermostat is too low temperature rated or has been removed. A hot engine and the thermostat is stuck in the closed position or the fresh water pump impeller is bad and ready to throw its little impeller blades into the hoses and then the heat exchanger. OUCH, and I’ve removed those little rubber pieces, too.

These are some of the things that a properly trained marine surveyor would look for. This is not a complete list of what encompasses a through Condition & Value survey. This list is not intended to take the place of YOU hiring a marine surveyor and it is only a cursory guide for when YOU take your first look at the boat. If you find these items during your first inspection, this does not necessarily mean she’s a lemon, for she may be a fine one indeed but a sloop that needs TLC.

What it does show you are the problems you will need to correct and ultimately asks you, is if you’re prepared to take on the repairs and weather or not it fits into your budget. Too completely rule out the boat hire a marine surveyor. Let him or her inspect the boat, present you with their report containing the facts, so then you can make the decision to re-negotiate or to seek out another boat.

For further reading with regards to sailboat surveying:

‘Inspecting the Aging Sailboat’ by Don Casey
Published 1997, ISBN: 0-07-013394-8

‘Surveying Small Craft’ (third edition) by Ian Nicolson
Published 1994, ISBN: O-924486-58-9

‘How To Buy the Best Sailboat’ by Charles R. Gustafson
Published 1991, ISBN: O-688-10987-X

‘Fiberglass Boat Survey Manual’ by Arthur Edmunds,
Published 1979, ISBN: O-8286-0083-x,
Library of Congress Card #: 79-50131

Next month: more on stoves, standing rigging and hogging/sagging