We have a C&C 34 that we've been sailing with hanked on jibs for the last couple of years. Works fine but I think we'd sail a lot more with a furler. I'm looking for furling and would like some input if it doesn't go against the advertising policies of the list. I see lots of Harken systems around which are obviously very popular but one of the concerns I have with Harken is that apparently the rod forestay will have to be cut. I would like to avoid this if possible. Profurl and Furlex also seem to be fairly popular but I'm basically starting from scratch so would appreciate any comments/suggestions.
Carl and Sue McGregor

I have Harken and it is good if you want to race. You can get the drum off and it has the aerodynamic twin groove luff. It is not perfect and sometimes hangs up. For a non-racer I would consider the Schaeffer system. It uses a round drum that will make furling the sail under loard easier.
Keep in mind that any sail with a UV shield will roller furl, but only a sail cut to do so will successfully roller reef.
Joe Della Barba - http://www.sailcandc.com

I bought a 1975 C&C 33 nine years ago and the first thing I did in the upgrade dept. was to add a furling headstay. The boat already had a vane headstay, having been used for racing a lot, so the existing rope luff was OK.( you'll have to change all your sails from hanks to rope luffs) I had the yard install a Harken system with a split drum (I found it not necessary to take the drum off because the luff is disturbed very little going around it) because I still wanted to do some racing (when you own a thoroughbred it's hard to hold 'em down). I can't tell you how great it is not to have to go forward to deal with the headsail especially in a blow. We used existing sails so had a sail loft sew on both UV patch for the leach and foot and what they call reef patches so you can partially furl the headsail instead of taking it down to put up a smaller jib, (the reef patches strengthen the leach and the foot where it will pull on the headstay). I have had absolutely no problems with the Harken and would recommend it although I know several other mfr. are also very good.
Jerry H.

You will take a performance hit going upwind and it matters whether you are cruising or racing. You may find yourself motoring more. Having said that my boat came with Harken roller furling and it is a very sturdy unit. The expenses you will have is convert your #2 (130% or 135% ) genoa to luff tape vs hanks and then you will need UV cloth sown onto the leech to protect the sail from the sun. You can't really roller furl a 140% or larger genoa. You may also want to convert you jib to luff tape but no UV as it would be an emergency sail. If you don't have a asymmetrical spinnaker you may want to invest in it because on light wind days the 130% genoa won't give you enough speed and you will do what I do, which is motor.
From Killarney to Lion's Head, my home port, is a 12 hour sail/motor trip. We had light and variable winds when we came back on my last trip and I wound up motoring as I don't have that asymmetrical spinnaker, or for that matter any spinnaker. It is on my shopping list for this winter. If you do have a 150% genoa you can bend it on in light wind conditions but then you are back to changing sails. Converting an existing sail to genoa can be done, mine have been, but your performance will suffer, especially upwind and especially if you need to roll it up partially. Talk to a sailmaker and find out what your options are. These days the sailmaker sow in foam padding (I am not familiar with them) but apparently they work very well. I was looking at a C&C 35 MK I a year ago or so and he had converted to roller furling and bought a brand new 135% genoa made to roller furl and apparently he was winning his club races.
Peter - S/V Bon Vivant - C&C Redwing 30 - Lion's Head, Ontario

Hi Carl & Sue:
You've received a lot of comment regarding the roller furling decision, all of which is applicable and I'd like to add my comments as well.
I own a 1977 C&C 38MKIIC which had the original Hyde Twin stay system..........I had North measure for new 150 and main prior to moving the boat from Marblehead to Hingham 3 yrs ago.......that system worked well for 2 years.......and then last year we discovered the Twin Stay was deteriorating near the top and I researched furling systems as a replacement project............
I went with a Furlex unit for several reasons..........a local dealer and installer, and the fact that the Furlex unit comes complete with all parts, including a new forestay and halyard retainer for the mast and furling line, etc.. Much of which you have to buy extra with Harken..........after pricing apples and apples, the Furlex system ended up almost 1/3 less money installed than the Harken........I am very pleased with how it operates and the drum is also removable for "racing". But as someone else noted, it's not necessary..........contrary to some other opinions, my 150 does furl and sail well........North Sails provides vertical stripes on the foot that indicate the 135 and 110 sizes.......The Furlex double groove luff and North measurements have been very convenient..........we usually sail as a two person crew........so the furling definitely was important. All of the UV comments are on target, you can have the UV cover material in white or any color you like...........
I hope this helps, contact me if you need any specific Furlex information.
Ron Casciato, Impromptu, C&C 38MKIIC

Carl and Sue,I added a Harken unit to my 34 two years ago. The drum on the Harken is very close to the deck and I lost very little sail area. My number 1 is a North Norlam laminate and was made to keep the foot as low as possible to the deck. It has a Dacron sun cover. Not as durable as Sunbrella but lighter. We race and do well with this sail. I had a 120% number two made this year, also Norlam. A little higher cut and with a Sunbrella cover. This is my cruising sail, along with an asymmetrical chute. The Harken does not roll as easily as some others and the furling line will give you fits once in a while. I will probably remove the core on the furling line this next season and give that a try.
Tom Duane - C&C34 "Chameleon"

I added a furler to my last boat, a 33 MKII. I chose the Schaeffer 2100 and was very pleased with it. I had a Harken on the previous boat and it was fine as well. I chose the Schaeffer for a couple of reasons...the riggers at my marina have a lot of experience with the Schaeffer and prefer it. When Practical Sailor had a C&C 33 MkI as a "test boat", they chose the Schaeffer for their boat. Defender offers the Schaeffer at pretty steep discounts (30-35%) if memory serves. West Marine was willing to match their price, making th Schaeffer more attractive financially.
I think you are going to have to have the forestay shortened whatever you do. I had rod rigging and had to have the rod shortened and "cold headed". Requires a properly equipped rigging operation. Some folks with rod rigging choose to go with wire for the forestay as it avoids the complexity of working with rod and the related toggles, etc. It is apparently a relatively quick and inexpensive installation for a professional who knows what they are doing. I really liked my Schaeffer, but I am sure you will enjoy any of the quality units.

Sorry to disagree Peter, but I have a furling #1 (155ish) and it works fine. It is a Harken I think.
Neil - FoxFire 1982 C&C32

Might as well toss in my 2 cents.
Indigo came with a Hood system which has been (mostly) great. Twin lines, it has two grooves in the foil which would allow you to strip sails, if you like. It rolls very smoothly. One thing to note is that a jam cleat at the stern is very helpful in allowing for reefing.
The only problem I have had with the system is with the top bearing. This bearing consists of two clam shell halves of high impact plastic that fit around the stay and into the top of the foil. Twice in the past years that bearing has shattered, making the furling next to impossible. And yes, of course, it did it with 35+ knots of wind, in pitching seas, with the sail partially furled. Woo hoo, loads of fun for skipper and crew alike. I never go for any extended cruising with out a full set of parts.
As for comments on furling itself, it is fantastic. I sail single handed often and could not do so without it. I can not really speak to performance hits, having never sailed Indigo without a roller furler. However, I had a new 140% jib cut this year by Doyle Long Island (great shop, and no, I am not affiliated with them in any way). The old one was 12 years old and soft as cotton. The new one has the foam luff (North uses a rope system) that helps retain the shape as the sail is reefed. It is also marked to indicate 120% and 100%. The Doyle guy indicated I could not go much higher than 140 and still be able to retain shape as it was reefed. The issue is that the clew gets higher and higher as you furl. The impact of the new sails have been unbelievable. I swear I gained 10 degrees upwind (ok, maybe a little hyperbole).
If you want to make heavy wind, short handed sailing even easier you may also want to rig your mainsail with forward reefing. I ran a line from reef point at the luff, down to the mast step and back to the clutches. This allows me to set the first reef without ever leaving the cockpit. A huge convience and also makes it much more likely that I won't get lazy, heel along, take the performance hit and make any weak stomached crew sacrifice to Neptune. As mentioned by another lister on a different topic, start reefing with the main and then move to the jib.
Good luck with the choice.
Michael - "Indigo" Mark III '35 - East Hampton NY

Ooops, one other comment.

A white dacron UV cover saves a buch of weight. However, I makes it easier to furl backwards and not notice it. Make sure you do not furl backwards, as the sun will eat through your sail in no time.
Michael - "Indigo"

Neil,
Great! I like other opinions especially if they work. Any time I have talked to my sailmaker in the past and said 150% genoa and roller furling I got head shaking so maybe I need to have a serious chat with him. I do a lot of cruising and because I don't have a 150% or spinnaker I wind up motoring more than I want to.
Thanks for the info. Always glad to update my mental database.
Peter - S/V Bon Vivant - C&C Redwing 30 - Lion's Head, Ontario

I would go with pro furl as you do not have to cut the fore stay and if you pick the model where the furling drum sits closer to the deck they have a model where the barrel also fits inside the furling drum. Pro furl makes two designs one is called the classic (more expensive) the other called the basic. If you have the boat bucks go for the classic all the parts are metal except for the furling drum.
Richard & Marisa - C&C29 mk1

Carl & Sue,
I replaced the existing furler on my 34 with a Furlex system last season. I had ordered a main from Quantum Annapolis (a 2+2 racing main) and discussed upgrading the furler that had come with the boat. They suggested Furlex. I looked up a Practical Sailor article on Furling systems and they rated both Furlex and Harken evenly. The Furlex does come with a new headstay, new blocks and line, and is priced less. I installed the system myself and have had no problems with it. This season I added a new tri-radial Pentex furling 135% genoa and really noticed the difference. The old sails can be adapted to be used on the furler but they will really lose shape when partially furled. I also had the lightweight white cover put on- to save weight.
Good luck, - Fred - C&C 34 WIND

My neighbor and I both installed Furlex roller furlers, and mated them to a new UK head sail with a luff pad. Works very well for his C&C 27, and my 29 Mark II. Before that I was using the racing sails along with the Tuff Luff. I swore I'd never stray from being a purist, but now I can't imagine life without it!!! Very pleased. If your in Maryland I can recommend an excellent rigger just south of Annapolis.
Brad and Mary Kuether - "Scholar" - 1984 C&C 29 Mark II - Middle River, MD

We have installed Furlex on two boats with great satisfaction. Kit comes complete with a new headstay. Customer service is the best. Talk to us off line for further info.
D&R

Peter --
when I converted my 30mkI to roller furling a few years ago, we had the sailmaker convert our existing hanked-on 150 for furling, and although the sail shape isn't as good as a purpose-built sail, we can still outpoint most of the boats in our area, and reef down to about 110 with fairly decent results. FWIW...
Fred Street -- Minneapolis - S/V Oceanis -- Bayfield, WI - Bayfield Yacht Club

170 is way too big for a roller reefing sail. I have a 150 and it is too big. 130% would be better if you want to be able to get to windward in heavy air. I would love to rerig my boat like the Saga 35 with a small jib for windward work and a big jib for offwind/light air work.
Joe Della Barba