Hi Chris,
Since I have the same trouble (caused by genoa tracks) the SAMSS surveyor suggested working from the top, overdrilling, gouging out wet stuff, dry out the deck and then do the usual refill with epoxy, redrill routine. If your installation is anything like mine you can probably put a piece of tape underneath each hole prior to filling with expoxy. Since the track will cover any repairs it shouldn't be ugly.
Regards -- Jackie
C&C 25 MKII

Greg,
The bent nail trick involves inserting a bent nail into a hole drilled in the deck and turning it with a drill to remove rotted core material. You can use different and increacing lengths bent nail to remove as much bad core as possible. I have even used an allen key instead of a bent nail when I found the nail was twisting off to much ( allen(hex) key is stronger).

You seal a screw or thru deck bolt by overdrilling the hole (just the top skin of deck and core) filling with epoxy or fiberglass resin of choice, then re-drilling the appropriate size hole for the hardware. This prevents water from entering the core and provides a much stonger base for your hardware.

I don't know which brand of epoxy is best. I use West epoxy, it comes with a metering pump and has an extensive instruction book on how to make different types of repairs.
Hope this helps.
P.S. I am in the process of removing all deck fittings and remounting useing this method.
Frank Foote
C&C 25 Wings

I wanted to add to Frank's comments, Greg. When we re-did the deck hardware on our C&C 27, we performed the operation just as Frank did, with one exception. After drilling the final "oversize" holes, we flooded the hole with an epoxy ketchup, wetted the screws with epoxy, then spun the screws into the soft epoxy, and mounted the hardware onto the deck. Get the epoxy's consistency right, and the screws which hold the hardware to the deck will now bond AND be "threaded" into the deck's core. Need to remove them in the future? Heat the screws, and back them out. Need to replace them? Brush with epoxy, and screw them back in. It's a neat trick, called "hardware bonding" by Gougeon Bros. They describe the process in detail in their "methods" booklet. Easy to obtain.
We've put some heavy loads on some of these items for over eight years now and no problems.
Good luck!
Richard H.
Dog Ladder

We have an aging golden retriever and faced 3 sharp stairs down the companionway for her. I screwed 2 strips of wood, one on either side,about 1 inch under the second step. We temporarily slide a board in under the steps large enough to make it easy for Cirrus to make her way into the cabin. As for getting in an out of the boat to the dingy (not the water) we built a step that bolts with wingnuts to the toerail and swings with a piano hinge half way down to the dingy. She can jump from the seat of the hard dingy to the step and onto the boat. I am in the middle of designing a new colapsable model that will store in 3 pieces without bolts or piano hinges. It is form fitted to the hull over the toe rail. It has 2 holes on the bottom for two pieces of dowelling made from a 2 * 2 piece of wood. The 2*2 will have a board(step) inset into it and will swing up and down held in place by a pair of ropes clipped over the toe rail. Still working on this one.
Harvey Hall
Early Riser
C&C 27'