C&C 34 Foot
Hello all.
Just signed on this list after being on the Pearson list for a long time. I'm selling my Pearson 26 and I am looking really hard at a 1978 C&C 34. If you guys are as good as the Pearson folks, I bet you folks have some resources I could browse about this boat. Also does anyone have anything they would like to say about this boat? I've sailed on her before, and it's a stable, fast boat, well appointed, and roomy. This one needs some work (mostly cleanup). Only drawbacks I see are the Atmoc 4, and the oddly offset prop (what's that all about?).
Well, I thank you all for your replies.
Ed Vorbach - NY
Ed,
Start with the C&C Photo Album and Resource Center at: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ You'll find it to be a terrific resource for your search.
Gary - S/V Expresso - '75 C&C 35 Mk II
Ed-
The Pearson32 has an "oddly offset prop" as well, don't let that scare you. It is a design compromise, probably the rudder and the hull shape made it impractical to put the prop where "god and Henry Ford" intended it to be, so to speak.
In theory an offset prop can also offset some of the normal prop walk...but I have no desire to go there.<
Ed:
As I've explained to other prospective 34 owners (I think Rod Merry from this list recently bought a 34, same vintage), I have a 1978 34 that I am very happy with. The big issues for me when I bought the boat were: 1) balsa coring below the water line (get a surveyor that knows how to use a moisture meter); 2) the main salon bulkheads separated from the hull (this was not a huge issue because, unlike a lot of boats, the chainplates on the 34 are not connected to the main bulkheads); and 3) the bottom had blistered and was repaired by the previous owner (making me a little nervous about no. 1, above). I contacted the yard that did the work and learned that the boat was out of the water for about 1.5 years. Apparently, the bottom had to be done twice because of a problem with the barrier coating not adhering properly from the first repair. In the end, in light of my lengthy conversation with the repair yard, some input from a local guy who's an expert on blistering, intense scrutiny by my surveyor looking for water problems in the hull, and significant reduction in price for the "risk" factor, I decided to buy the boat. The other problems are the usual ones: 1) leaking windows (I've replaced with opening ports); 2) leaking fittings, which I 'm repairing as time permits; 3) mildew smell, mostly caused by nos. 1 and 2; 4) cosmetic issues; 5) old stuff; etc. No big surprises.
When I brought the boat home to Erie from Buffalo, it was blowing about 20 knots on the nose. On Lake Erie, that translates into pounding waves in a matter of hours. I was very impressed by how gently the boat handled the waves while still keeping a decent course(not a lot of slamming, or wheel work to prevent slamming, like on flatter bottom boats).
There was a string on this list about the relative tenderness of the boat and the narrowness of the "slot," but I've been happy so far. If I were serious about racing the boat, I might have picked something else. For an occasion fun race and day/evening outings, it is a good, comfortable boat with a lot of room for a decent price.
Let me know if you have more specific concerns.
Matt Wolford
Ed:
One more thing: you asked about the Atomic 4. I've never had a problem with an A-4, including the one on my boat. Like any other old engine, the oil level/pressure needs to be routinely monitored, and the oil should be changed regularly. Other than that, it's a simple, relatively forgiving engine.
Matt Wolford
Thanks for your input. I really like the C&C 34 that I'm looking at, and while the A4 is not a deal breaker for me, everyone else up here turns up their nose at it. Granted a diesel would be better, but the A4 is so common, parts & etc. would be pretty easy to come by. Another plus is that I am pretty adept at car engines (well used to be in the 70's when they weren't so complicated) and figure that my skill there would come in handy. My biggest concern is the cored hull. My friend has a C&C 33 Mk II (1986) and he takes great care of his boat, yet every year, he has blisters (lots). If he can't stop the hull from blistering, who can?
Ed,
If it's any comfort to you, my previous boat was a 1980 C&C 34 and by the time I sold it in 1996, it had only once, at the end of 1995, developed a few small blisters in isolated discrete areas, primarily near the prop strut. Not bad for a 15 year old boat. They were easily and inexpensively repaired. In addition, there were some small blisters that formed on the rudder, also not a major job to repair. The buyer's survey confirmed that blistering was not a major concern and I did not have to discount the price after making the repairs (which I disclosed to the purchaser before the survey). I also do not believe that my 34's hull was cored below the waterline.
Ken Hirsch - Pukalani 1996 C&C 36XL
You are correct about the A4. It's nothing more than an overgrown lawnmower engine. just be sure to change the oil frequently. The other thing to watch out for is don't over rev it. particularly in rough seas. The crank shaft has only 2 main journals, 1 at each end, with no support for the middle. if you are in rough waters, the crank can develop a "whip action" in the middle and break. very expensive to get a replacement.
There is an Atomic 4 mailing list on Sailnet that has all the A4 info you could ever want. I have never heard of A4s breaking cranks in rough seas. If that was true mine would have broken about 500 times since 1977. Even if the engine is absolutely dead the most expensive rebuilt engine from Moyer is about $4500 (www.moyermarine.com).
Joe Della Barba - Coquina
I'm in the process of buying a 1982 C&C 34 k/cb. What an average price for this boat? Original deck/hull paint; orig. teak/holly sole; 3GMD, diesel, pro-furl roller furler with 5 yo jib, mainsail & spinnaker. Would call it in good condition. Orig. standing rigging, also.
Thanks. - Bill.