You commented that Bill Lapworth didn't appreciate modifications to his boats. If you've ever looked at the mast thickness and section on a Cal 40, you may understand his reluctance. My C&C 30 has about the same section and greater wall thickness. Cal 40 masts were not very stout and quite a few have failed.... A friend here on the Chesapeake has cut a couple inches off the spreaders on his Triton and gained some pointing ability. I am going to do the same on Penniless, my 30, as I'm always trying to stuff the spreaders through the genoa. Has anybody done this on a 30?

Also, has anyone else run into the problem of the starboard chain plates on a 30 being an inch further from the mast than the port ones? Mine are and I assume I will have to do a winter modification. They measure that way on deck and down below.
Thanks, Gary Nylander
"Penniless" C&C30 #593
ps. Were there really 593 30's built?

Gary We have had our 30 1974 ,since 84 and i never noticed a difference in chain plate location. A previous owner installed a forward set of lowers on ours that are anchored to the forward bulkhead.I was told it was to prevent mast inversion. Where did you take your measurements from? Mast? Toe rail? The boat is sitting in my backyard and will try to have a look over the holidays.
Brad
Magic Dragon
C&C 30 Hull #241

Brad, I measured the chainplates both from the mast to the plate inside the boat and from the plates to the toe rail outside. I was concerned that the mast may not be centered so I measured to the toe rail from each side of the mast using a level from the toe rail upward to 4' above deck. The mast is centered, but the plates are an inch and a quarter different. Weird.
Thanks for the reply.
Gary Nylander, C&C 30 593"Penniless"

Larry ;
We had the same problems with the chain plates on our 30. Caulking usually lasted a couple of seasons then they leaked again. 3 years ago i picked all of the caulking out from where it goes through the deck and drilled out the screw holes that fasten the plate to the deck. Filled all with West System epoxy and their 406 colloidal filler. Sealed with 3M 4200 caulking. So far no leaks. That was my Starboard chain plate. I did the Port one last year. Try and get as much of the balsa core out as you can where it goes through the deck and around screw holes. That way if it leaks moisture won't get back into core.
Brad
C&C 30 Magic Dragon

Larry,
I had also resealed the chainplates last year. Used 3M 5200 which was recommened at the time. Very messy stuff to deal with. Would not use it again.
Discovered butyl, comes on a roll in a light grey colour. Believe this is what was used originally for the hull/deck joint. Used it for the windows and would most definitely use it when it comes time to do the chainplates again. It could be used as a caulking/sealant under the deck plate and also packed around the chainplate at the deck. It feels like bubble gum. (Don't chew it!) This is the same stuff RV centres use to seal all the joints when building those road warriors.

You did it correctly. I did the same thing, only I made the mistake of using 3M 5200. It doesn't bond well to the stainless steel and it's already leaking.

Also, I did mine when the boat was on the hard and the mast removed. When I put the stick back in and tensioned the shrouds, the chainplate tilted inward and that's probably what broke the seal. I'm planning to gouge out the 5200 and replace it with something better. I haven't decided what yet - any suggestions out there? The joint between the chainplate and the deck is very active and the compound should be both tenacious and flexible.

My long-term to-do list includes sealing the core at every through-deck hole - only the stanchions are left.
Wally Kowal
Whistler II
C&C 30 '74 out of LSYC, Toronto

I used butyl tape for sealing my winches and the cabin-top handrail. I found that it creeped out from the joint and attracted dirt. I've switched to polysulfides like 5200 and 101.
Wally Kowal
Whistler II
C&C 30 '74 out of LSYC, Toronto