I remember most of the pointers on redoing floors, but I can't remember what was recommended for the final coat to make it smooth.
I took the finish down to bare teak, cleaned it and in some areas bleached it, and have applied two coats of Cetol light. Sanded with 220# in between and it looks fantastic. Doing the last coat now, is anything required after it dries to rub down the finish. The Cetol Light is not as glossy as the regular, and the second coat looks fairly smooth, but I want to make sure I finish correctly.
Klaus - Al Jamilah '86 35 Mk 111

From an old post
On my new cabin sole and I used the 'formula' that I found in Hinckley's "Yacht Maintenance" book that they use for their cabin soles: 2 coats West System Epoxy with 207 Special Hardener and then 'n' coats of varnish where 'n' probably means 20+ at Hinckley. :-) Actually, I can't remember how many coats they recommended but I'm at 6 and adding. I used two coats of the epoxy on top and one on the edges and bottom. Hope that helps.
Just an aside: We were next to the Hinckley boats at the Newport boat show and they had two people doing "all varnish, all the time" on the Picnic Boats prior to the opening date. Oy!, they are serious, serious folks about their varnish...

Another old post
Dave,
I pulled my floors out last month...here is what I did and I'm very pleased with how they came out.
-Used a scrub brush with Zep cleaner/degreaser from Home Depot to remove grime and oils
-On the back side used Zep Mildew remover cut down with water
-wiped off all the sludge
-let them dry for a couple of days after scrubbing
-sanded with 120 grit paper very lightly
-cleaned off dust with rag damp with acetone
-let dry about an hour
-applied 2 coats of Cetol (I would use the ultra clear stuff next time
if I had a re-do) -applied 2 coats of High gloss Cetol
The sole looks great!

Finally a last old post
Hi Dave,
A couple of additional suggestions to Jon's comments. Use a vacuum cleaner with brush attachment after sanding. It will get imbedded dust out of the grain. Just before varnish or cetol, use a painters tack rag. It will pick up anything left or that has settled since the acetone or alcohol wipe down.
Regards, Hank Evans

My professional advice is to sand the last coat with #320 skuff paper and burnish with 0000 steel wool (don't bother w/ brass wool). I will give a satin finish and wear well. Any little skuffs can be wooled out and you won't slip on it dry or wet. Every year or two, lightly resand it a bit and apply a coat or two and do the wool thing again.

Greg,
T'was me that submitted that post. For those interested, I continued adding coats of varnish over last winter and spring and got up to somewhere in the neighborhood of 10/11 coats. Here's the deal though: when wet they are slippery, slippery, slippery! Watch your butt in heavy seas.....
I'm thinkin' of going to a satin finish on top of the gloss this year. Oh boy.....
Reflectively, Dave '82 37' "Ronin" - Annapolis

I'm in the process of redoing my cabin sole. I removed all of the boards, and then took them to a local antique finishing place called "The Big Dipper". They have three huge tanks for stripping and neutralizing. They even glued two pieces that were delaminating. It was worth the $160 to not have to do the stripping myself. I sanded with 220 grit using a palm sander. Be careful that you don't go through the veneer. Next I applied McCloskey GymSeal satin floor finish. Two coats does a pretty good job on the bottom and on the edges, but I'm going to put a third coat on top. It takes about twelve hours between coats, but it continues to cure for about two weeks after the last coat is applied. They recommend not putting any mats or paper down until it's completely cured, and only walk on it with stocking feet until then.
Alan Bergen 35 Mk III, "Thirsty"

Make sure that's stainless or bronze wool that you use, Klaus, or you'll be digging flecks of rust out of every surface on the boat for the rest of your life...
Jim Watts Paradigm C&C 29 Mk II Victoria, BC

Except the tiniest bits of wool missed will leave big rust stains, Especially if you sail in a marine environment. You can get away with a lot more if you're a fresh water sailor. Wife's uncle had to drill a shackle last year and missed some filings. Within 2 days he had rust spots all over his foredeck. Took 2 days work to clean up. I have a rust circle on my cabin sole (fiberglass) from a can left overnight. Will be trying to remove during the off season.
Kent

Kent,
I wish I had read this information before I used steel wool to clean fixtures in the cabin and before I decided to re-finish the teak and holly floor. I put one coat of light stain and 6 coats of polyurethane on the floor and it has held up even under the duress of rum overfills and spills. I also refinished the wooden lattice in the cockpit with a similar stain and urethane - it works extremely well and is not slippery
John Lane Four Sisters TNYC Holyrood, NF