Charlie -
You've got the paint removal incorrect. You remove it with a random orbital sander (with dust pickup to protect the you and your world) using 100-150 grit sand paper, nothing finer as the new VC won't adhere well (see directions on can). As Gremellyn has had VC since new, we're in the same situation (no, other paints don't stick to vinyl), but I've pretty much sanded it all off each year. VC goes on so thin that it isn't that hard, but you've got years now so it may be a project. Just make sure to stop right when the VC is disappearign and gel coat is appearing...don't oversand at this point ...preserve the gel coat or barrier coat to prevent blisters.

After you spray on 3 coats of VC (let dry completely, ca. 16 hrs between each; Interlux recommends 3 coats if you're wet sanding) and it's set for several days to make sure its dry, you then wet sand with 400 and if you really want it smooth, 600. We then burnish the front 1/3 of the hull and all of the foils with bronze wool. Dave's idea with 1000 is good, but I'm not too keen on dry sanding new paint vis a vis toxic dust and taking a chance on removing too much. For wet sanding, we use dry wall sanders (plastic, one with a handle and one with an universal joint that screws into a broom handle extension..get them at Home Despot), and pizza and beer for the crew. Takes about 3 hours to do Gremellyn (30') with 5 people (Lynda is in charge of the hose!). The real key is the spray painting. If the bottom is really fair (your task..both foil shape, removing hollows, etc.) and they do a good (smooth)spray job, then you can go right to the 600, and presand with 400 any of the rough spots. When she's back in the water, clean BEFORE EVERY RACE...no way around this.

Give me a call if you want to go over all of the steps; we've done it so much to our last few boats that we're nearly pros.
Cheers, Greg

Hello all,
I'll preface this by saying I've already read everything I could find in the archives on the subject, but this question is still outstanding in my mind.
The '76 C&C 27 I bought VC-17 on the bottom. It wasn't in the water this last summer, and has a few spots that would need touching-up any way about it. I understand the VC-17 doesn't do very well sitting on the hard for an extended period, so I'll either have to burnish it or repaint.
I'm very familiar with the ACP-50, and like the fact that as an ablative, it wears completely away, so you don't have to sand much to repaint; withstands extended haulouts (like we have in Chicago) well; though not as smooth a some paints, can be applied with a roller easily (rather than spraying) and will smooth out over the season.
This being said, I'm a cruiser, not a racer, but don't want to kill myperformance, either. What would you do in my situation, and if repainting,which product and why?
Thanks! -- Bruce

Bruce,
The previous owner of the 1979 C&C30 we bought this year had taken all accumulated bottom paint off, redid the bottom coat and put ACP50 on. In our spring commissioning, I followed suit, not wanting to mix bottom paints, but did use the newly-introduced ACP50 with antislime. I've been happy with the result, and we sail in salt water, berth in high-saline brackish. No barnacles, etc., and while the bottom is slimy-ish to the touch (about like a fish), no accumulation of marine growth and other gunk. Likewise, not a racer, no opinion on the effects relative to competition. I'm likely to use it again next season. BTW, I would have to think that removing 20 years' accumulated bottom paint in and of itself has had a positive effect on the boat's performance, probably outweighing any possible downsides of the surface texture from rolling on the ACP50.
Mike -- 1979 C&C30, "Blue Dolphin" Fair Haven, NJ

Bruce,
Since not many other bottom paints will stick to VC-17 (Woolsey Hydrocoat is one), it probably would be best to keep using it. It is very easy to apply. I use a cheap garden sprayer to apply followed closely by a roller to smooth things out. It dries almost instantly so that roller should be in the hands of a helper or your able first mate. Just wash the bottom and reapply right over last years VC-17. It melts right into itself. Because it is so easy we reapply every year. It takes about 30 minutes to do a 30 footer. And the teflon in the stuff makes you feel faster anyway.Best of luck with your new good old boat.
Dave "Tinuviel" Redwing 30

Have you visited Interlux yet? ( http://www.yachtpaint.com ) According to the information I have from them the only paint you can successfully put over VC-17M is more VC-17M. Anything else requires complete removal. (Bites eh?)That said, VC-17 is a multi season paint that does NOT loose it's effectiveness out of the water. It has no max drying time before immersion and is recommended to trailerables.
Kent

VC-17 has my vote (Lake Ontario). Roller or airless sprayer (Wagner Power Painter) - bottom prep is a 15 minute wipe-down with acetone, then paint. I usually paint in the fall while the weather's good, then it's ready for spring. After many years of coatings, I thought I'd better sand it off, but 2 swipes with 400 grit and I was through it = no buildup. And keep the roller and brush - just put them in more VC-17 next time you paint - they'll soften up and you can use them again.
JAZZ

Freeze your VC17?
By accident, I left a can of VC17 in the garage last winter. I thought that it might do for the bottom of the keel. When opened, it was a gel, not liquid. I tried rolling it on and found it covered even more then usual! 3/4 of a L did more than half of my C+C 35! Have I discovered the secret? :)
Henry Pasma C+C 35 MK1

Boy that would be an interesting question to ask the Interlux people! Can't imagine they'd say its a GOOD thing, but I'd like to know what they think the downside would be... They wouldn't want us buying less of the stuff now would they??? :)
Fair winds, Bruce